During my first visit to the town of Bosa, I looked with slight envy at the locals who have this beautiful sea, eagerly peeked into the windows of colorful houses to find out how people live here, ate in tourist restaurants and thought it was authentic Italian food. Now I've been living here for almost a year and smile when tourists take photos of me hanging clothes to dry. In reality, I'm a bit envious of them, because for them everything here is new, unusual, and so beautiful.
I'll start by saying that this small town of 8,000 inhabitants has a much longer history than my native St. Petersburg with its 5 million people.
The Bosa area was inhabited since prehistoric times. The city, like all of Sardinia, has seen a huge number of different tribes and peoples. In the Middle Ages, due to its strategically important position, it constantly endured Arab raids. In 1073, construction began on the ancient church dedicated to Saint Peter (San Pietro). Then in 1307, the Malaspina Castle was built, which has survived to this day. The castle is truly mesmerizing and attractive. I remember how in the hot noon I trudged uphill and dreamed of finding there if not a prince, then at least cultural treasures. Unfortunately, as often happens in life, bitter disappointment overtook me. Only the walls, a chapel inside, and a paid entrance remain of the castle. I'll tell you about the castle separately next time.
The second attraction of the city is the Temo River. This is the only navigable river in Sardinia. Though not for long... A dam was built upstream, where I love to ride my bicycle and dream about my own house with mandarin and apricot trees.
After the castle was built, houses began to stretch under its protection, and thus the city center emerged. It's one of the most unusual places I've seen. I like to just walk along these narrow streets. I don't memorize their names, only the color of the houses. I wanted so much to visit, or maybe even live in one of these houses. But imagine a house three meters wide by three meters and 5 stories tall. On the first floor is the entrance hall, on the second - the bathroom, on the third - the living room, on the fourth - the bedroom, and then the kitchen. It feels like there's nowhere to run, but oh how you need to run!!! There are a few more problems: mobile phones don't work in these houses and you have to park your car 2 km away from home. In general, moving to the city center was canceled.
I was surprised to learn that there are 10 churches in such a small town. Of course, some of them don't operate, and some are only opened for weddings. Sardinians, like most Italians, are very devout, but crossing yourself every time you see a cross, even if you're driving and risk creating an accident on narrow streets, is an exaggeration in my view.
On the other side of the river are ancient tanneries dating back to the Roman Empire. In 1987, they were recognized as a national monument. Unfortunately, in the mid-19th century, after experiencing its heyday, Bosa's leather business died. But the last owner of the tannery left his grandchildren and great-grandchildren a good inheritance. In one of the tannery premises, a cinema and film museum was opened several years ago by the great-grandchildren, and then closed. But oh, these Bosani!!! They didn't go to the cinema, and now they drive 70 km to the nearest theater and complain...
Bosa has many bars. I'll say right away that people don't go to bars to drink. From 6 am they will prepare you a cup of wonderful cappuccino and the tenderest freshly baked pastry. They will give you a free newspaper of your choice and tell you what happened in the city. And all this pleasure costs just 2 euros. Bars don't serve food. Only snacks and hot sandwiches.
The cultural life of the city comes alive only in summer with the arrival of tourists. In the evenings, music plays in all the bars and people rest from the hot day, sipping Aperol or Campari. In the next posts, I'll tell you what to do and where to go in Bosa.
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